Dress
Category
Costume
Date
1768 - 1780
Materials
Silk, Baleen, Linen, Lead, Metal
Collection
Killerton, Devon
NT 1359495.1
Summary
Dress and matching petticoat of blue silk with white woven stripes and chiné à la branche black flecks, trimmed with narrow blue, white and black silk braid. Sack back, elbow length sleeves, weighted with coins and with gathered flounces. Flounce around hem of open skirt. Laces at back. Later alterations include narrowed sack pleats and boning and lacing added inside.
Full description
Associated with the French court and known as Pompadour silk in England, the ‘clouded’ patterns of chiné à la branche were a favourite of Queen Marie Antoinette. A complex resist dyeing technique similar to Asian ikat patterned ‘branches’ of warp threads before weaving. Pleated robings and silk braid toning perfectly with the restrained palette are this gowns’ only adornments. By the late 1770s the sack or robe à la française was worn for most formal occasions apart from those demanding full court dress. More elaborate versions trimmed with decorative ribbons and braid had deep double or treble sleeve flounces. Fitted gowns were preferred in England. Lacing in the centre back lining ensures that this gown lies perfectly beneath flowing silk pleats. A front fastening bodice instead of a stomacher is secured with hooks (some are replacements), a style introduced in the 1770s. The open robe and matching petticoat are supported by small pocket hoops or hip pads rather than enormous paniers, both have pocket slits to enable the wearer to reach a pair of pockets tied around the waist underneath. Shelley Tobin, Costume Curator