Waistcoat
Category
Costume
Date
1770 - 1800
Materials
Silk, silk and metal thread, glass paste and and linen
Measurements
Overall length 625mm, chest 960mm & waist 825mm
Order this imageCollection
Calke Abbey, Derbyshire
NT 292107
Caption
When this court suit of brown and gold velvet was worn, its flamboyant decoration would have sparkled and shone, especially in candlelight. An eye-catching demonstration of wealth and social status, it belonged to Sir Henry Harpur, 6th Baronet (1739–89), or his son Sir Henry Crewe, 7th Baronet (1763–1819), of Calke Abbey. The sartorial style of elite British men throughout the 18th century was as colourful and luxurious as fashion for women, and both followed trends originating in France. The embroidery decorating this velvet coat and waistcoat was sewn by a highly skilled professional French embroiderer. Floral sprays sweep down the front opening of the coat (NT 292106) and around to the back pleats, matched to the decoration of the cuffs and pockets and contrasting cream silk waistcoat. The intricate stitches of silk and silver thread incorporate silver spangles and newly fashionable foil-backed glass pastes in imitation of diamonds and coloured precious stones. Emma Slocombe
Summary
A white satin, embroidered gentleman's waistcoat. A note reads, 'Waistcoat, 18thCent, worn by Sir Henry Harpur, to be returned to Miss Crewe, 36 Stanhope Gdns.' Embroidery similar to CAL/T/884. Cotton at the back and cotton lining. White satin front embroidered all over with a design of pale green leaf sprig. Heavier embroidery along the edges in yellow, pink and green, with glass beads, sequins and silver thread. 11 circular buttons, embroidered. Seam down the centre back and two pairs of fastening tapes. (Coat CAL/T/844 probably to match)
Marks and inscriptions
Waistcoat, 18thCent, worn by Sir Henry Harpur, to be returned to Miss Crewe, 36 Stanhope Gdns (inscribed note)
References
Antrobus and Slocombe 2025: Helen Antrobus and Emma Slocombe, 100 Things to Wear: Fashion from the collections of the National Trust, National Trust 2025, pp. 84-85.