'Lady Macbeth' in 'MACBETH'
Category
Costume
Date
1888
Materials
Cotton, Glass, Metal, Muslin, Silk, Wool
Order this imageCollection
Smallhythe Place, Kent
NT 1118840.1
Summary
Costume for 'Lady Macbeth' in 'MACBETH' (the Banqueting Scene) at the Lyceum Theatre, 1888. Believed to be inspired by the ‘bilaut’ style of dress, commonly seen during the 12th century, with long flowing sleeves, high waist and long voluminous skirt, the light and airy nature of the style created by the use of lightweight cotton muslin/voile which has been gathered at the sleeves, bodice and skirt to create a diaphanous, ethereal look. Ground fabric of gathered light brown (originally cream) cotton muslin/voile, with 11mm spaced lines of embroidered gilt thread (metal leaf on paper, wound around an inner core of orange silk fibres, now exposed). The gathered neck line of fine cotton(?) net, is decorated with lines of laid couching embroidery, once goldwork threads. Now only the paper substrate & inner cream silk fibre core remains visible. There are bands of metallic embroidery running down the skirt from the waistband, the wider band, appliqued on top of the muslin/voile fabric, there is a second, narrower but heavier metal decorative strip, embroidery worked on a cream silk taffeta ground, this has been applied over the top of two of the wider goldwork embroidery bands to either side of the centre front. This is also true of the embellishment which forms a ‘v’ at the centre front of the bodice, finished with a circular metal ‘brooch’. A narrow version of the wider embroidery design/band has been used to trim/decorate the edges of the sleeves. There are also appliqued ‘leaf’ motifs stitched to the skirt, a row of 6 running down the centre front, a row of 7 motifs at each side seam (back) and a row of 7, off-set, each side of the centre back. Two lines of heavy jewelled bands running above and below the stomacher. The stomacher front is heavily embroidered with gold gilt thread braid laid couching, creating an ‘art nouveau’ style design. The jewels are multi-coloured glass, semi-precious stones & metal stitched on a gold colour silk twill(?) fabric strip. The sleeves are bat wing shaped. Hook and eye fastenings to the centre back, from neck through to hip/skirt. The skirt is lined with an undyed complex weave silk(?) fabric and the bodice is lined with a finely knitted silk/wool sleeveless bodice attached to this are fitted net sleeves with rows of gathering stitch down their length, which sit underneath the outer voluminous muslin sleeves. The skirt is trained. With cloak NT/SMA/TC/115b and headdress NT/SMA/TC/248a-c forms complete costume.