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Day dress

Jay's Ltd

Category

Costume

Date

c. 1910

Materials

Silk and cotton

Order this image

Collection

Scotney Castle, Kent

NT 793363

Caption

On a fine day in early summer 1910, Mary Rosamond Anstruther (1877–1958) wore this striking cream and black striped silk day dress below a wide-brimmed straw hat (NT 793364) while she sat for her portrait on the balustrade above the gardens at Scotney Castle. With light, billowing sleeves and black sash pulled tightly at the waist, the dress is a beautiful example of the flowing grace of Edwardian dress style, which nevertheless required a boned bodice worn over a corset to create its curvaceous look. The dress was chosen by the artist, Sir James Jebusa Shannon RA (1862–1923), who instructed Anstruther on where to purchase it, before composing the sitter wearing the dress for his portrait (NT 792039). Photographs also survive showing her sitting for the artist as he worked (NT 793485). Together, the dress, painting and photographs provide a rare insight into the engagement between artist and sitter at a particular moment in the early 20th century. Emma Slocombe

Summary

Cream and black striped silk day dress by Jay's Ltd of London, c. 1910. Worn by Mary Rosamond Anstruther (1877–1958) with a wide-brimmed straw hat (NT 793364) for a portrait on the balustrade above the gardens at Scotney Castle painted by Sir James Jebusa Shannon RA (1862–1923). Photographs also survive showing her sitting for the artist as he worked (NT 793485).

Provenance

Part of the Hussey Collection. The contents were bequeathed to the National Trust in 2006 by Mrs Elizabeth Hussey.

Marks and inscriptions

Waitband of bodice: By appointment to the Queen, Jay's Limited, Regent St, London

Makers and roles

Jay's Ltd, dressmaker

References

Antrobus and Slocombe 2025: Helen Antrobus and Emma Slocombe, 100 Things to Wear: Fashion from the collections of the National Trust, National Trust 2025, pp. 160-161.

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