Overdress
Category
Costume
Date
1835
Materials
Brass, Cotton, Linen, Satin, Silk
Collection
Snowshill Wade Costume Collection, Gloucestershire
NT 1349147.2
Summary
Overdress - Part of a woman's satin dress with overdress dating from c1835. Dress Fabric - Purple navy satin. Lining - Bodice lined with grey silk. Sleeves lined heavy brown stiffened muslin. Skirt fully lined with glazed cotton. Waistband mounted on strong linen tape. Depp ham facing beneath lining. Cut - Slightly raised waistline. Scooped neckline, self-bound. Bodice front cut on bias with centre seam and bust darts to waist. Centre-back opening extending into the skirt. Seam curving from armhole to waist. large puff sleeves deeply pleated round head and into band at opening. Set-in waistband. Skirt knife pleated front and sides, the pleats facing centre-front. Tight organ pleating at front. Piped seams. Centre-front seam top stitched. Balance marks still in place on skirt. Fastenings - 7 small flattened brass hooks and buttonhole bars centre-back. 2 large brass hooks and eyes on waistband. Alterations - Bodice darts have been altered. Comment - To go with overdress CHA 1. OVERDRESS Fabric - Purple-navy silk gauze with machine woven leaf pattern. Lining - Waistband of silk ribbon mounted on narrow dark blue silk ribbon. Cut - Slightly raised waistline. Low draped neckline. Bodice front in 2 sections draped, crossing centre-front. Draping held in position at shoulder. Purple satin band across shoulder. Centre-back opening extending into skirt. Diagonal seam from armhole to waist. The centre sections gathered at waist. Matching pleated band at neck. Wide gigot sleeves. Skirt has deep knife pleats side front, the pleats facing centre-front. Gathered centre-back. Set-in waistband. Waist belt or sash missing. Piped with matching purple satin. Small loops of linen tape inside waist at back. Fastenings - 2 small painted steel hooks and eyes on waistband. Handwritten label accompanies 'c1830 gauze overdress on loan from Chastleton House (Mrs. Clutton-Brock) to pair with its matching satin underdress in Snowshill Collection...worn by Dorothy Clutton-Brock who married John Henry Whitmore who took the name of Whitmore-Jones when he inherited Chastleton House in 1828'. (Cross Ref. Nancy Bradfield 'Costume in Detail' p151,153; SNO 447/CHA 1; H). (female)
Provenance
overdress once belonging to Dorothy Clutton-Brock Given to National Trust with Snowshill Manor in 1951 by Charles Paget Wade