Dress
Category
Costume
Date
1840 - 1845
Materials
Bone, Brass, Cotton, Metal, Silk, Wool
Order this imageCollection
Snowshill Wade Costume Collection, Gloucestershire
NT 1349137.1
Summary
Dress - Part of a woman's silk and wool dress with pereline dating from 1840-45. Fabric - Open weave of silk warp and wool weft (barege). Mainly cream with chevron-woven stripe of cyclamen pink silk. Printed between the stripes with sprays of flowers and circles of dots outlined in black. The bright, clear colours crudely block printed same fabric as 796. Lining - Bodice lined with strong white cotton. Sleeves lined with glazed white cotton. Skirt fully lined with stiffened white muslin. Frills backed cotton net. Pelerine lined with cream silk. Waist reinforced with strong cotton tape. Cut - Natural waistline, pointed in front. Wide neckline pointed in same way in front. Low, scoop neckline at back. Bodice front cut with centre seam with fabric on the cross. 3 darts fan out to either side of the waist point so that the stripes form a chevron at the centre. 2 folded strips of the same fabric applied from the back of the shoulder where thwe ends are covered with a decorative bar over the front of the bodice to converge at the point of the waist. The centre point stands free from the top of the skirt, overlapping it, to give the appearance of the seperate bodice. Side and centre-front seams boned (1 missing). Dropped shoulder line. Centre-back opening extends short way into the skirt. The bodice back has seams curving in from the back armholes. Long curved sleeve narrows towards wrist. At the top it has 4 rows of gauging beneath a short, flared oversleeve. Full skirt, organ pleated all round waist. Thick stiff hem. Fob pocket at waist left-hand side. Pelerine seamed at shoulders, falls to a point at back waist. Meets centre-front edge-to-edge, forming a point echoing that of a dress waistline. Piped seams, 3 rows of decorative piping edging bodice. Skirt and skirt lining joined together and then worked as one piece. Trimmings - Wire braid in pinks and yellow applied to bodice, oversleeves and pelerine. Self-fabric rosette centre-back waist. Fastenings - Tape tie inside from centre-back waist. 12 small brass hooks centre-back with worked bars. 3 on each cuff. 2 large flattened wire hooks and eyes at waist. Buttonhole bars worked through narrow reinforcing tape which is inside. (cf Nancy Bradfield 'Costume in Detail' p181-2, B108). (female)
Provenance
Given to National Trust with Snowshill Manor in 1951 by Charles Paget Wade