Leather, gold and silver thread, silk
800 x 420 mm; 40 mm (Height); 750 mm (Height); 60 mm (Height)Order this image
Seaton Delaval Hall, Northumberland
On show at
A rare and important military leather surcoat and doublet, circa 1640, (originally belonging to Jacob Astley, Lord Astley of Reading, who commanded Charles I's in the civil war) a parchment note attached to the skirt of the robe reads 'the buff coat, vest and sword belt of Sir John Astley Kt Serjit Major of the forces of H.M.K's, created Baron Astley of Reading 1644 born at Melton Constable 1579, died at his house called the place of maidstone 1651.' The surcoat of buff leather with curved stand collar deeper at the front than at the back, the main robe formed form four single sections cut with wide skirts , the back with deep vented skirt, top stitched seams with double row at the underarms and sides to give extra strength, the inset sleeves adorned with vertical bands of braid couched in gold and silver threads , the front cut away at the top to reveal the decorative buttons of the doublet below, with threaded silver and silk cords to the side opening which tie at the front waist , the stand collor with four loops, lacking corresponding buttons , the upper section lined in silk, the front chest panels reinforced with stiffened interlining for extra protection, nine tabs to the inner waist for fastening to breeches. The plain buff leather doublet with high waist, slim fitting sleeves which protrude through the decorative surcoat sleeves, the narrow cuffs with slits to the wrists edged in buff silk, with tall stand collar, fastened to the front by twenty two buttonholes with 19 corresponding buttons embroidered and wrapped in gold and silver threads, the collor with a further five looped fastenings and three and a half remaining buttons, ten tabs to the waist with metal rings to attach to breeches, the doublet fully lined in buff silk, the front panels reinforced with stiffened interlining for extra protection. Remains of a pink paper label adhered to inside of proper right skirt of surcoat says 'Art Treasures exhibition Museum of Art'. The inner edges of the surcoat skirts are edged with a narrow silk ribbon, the same ribbon binds the edge of the collar. This ribbon also binds the cuffs of the doublet sleeves.